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The
London Ring
Enslow to Limehouse.
Back in December
1999 when we moved onto "SANCTUARY", we were discussing her inaugural
"Cruise". We needed something special and the Thames ring was the answer.
In fact her inaugural cruise was to Crick 2000, but that's another story
Ray was able to take 3 weeks leave so we planned to that timescale. Never
having been on tidal waters, we checked with the Port of London Authority,
(PLA), the lock keepers at Teddington and Limehouse and of course the
insurance company. The latter is particularly important in case things
go wrong. They need to know when you will be going and have confirmation
that you will be carrying a VHF radio and/or a mobile phone (you could
invalidate your insurance by non-compliance). PLA told us that we also
needed to carry a life belt that would go round a person and for it to
be attached to a rope. As well, an anchor was essential and they recommended
it have sufficient chain and warp to accommodate a 15-meter change in
tide at Limehouse should an emergency arise. In addition, they strongly
advised all crewmembers to wear a life jacket. The date we chose to go
through Teddington coincided with a Neap tide which seemed a good omen.
After all the checking and double-checking it was suddenly July and we
were off.
As you are no doubt aware, the weather this summer has not been brilliant
but that first week travelling down the Thames it was lovely, which was
a good job since the lock keepers at Iffley lock has left the weir running.
A Norfolk broads type hire boat had tied up dead center on the lock mooring
which meant "SANCTUARY" could only get her bow near the mooring so the
weir dragged the stern across the river. No amount of additional throttle
could persuade the stern to come in line. The lock keeper tried pushing
while Ray put the engine flat out with the tiller hard over, all to no
effect. Eventually, the lock keeper and I pulled her in by rope still
with the engine at full throttle. I remarked to the lock keeper what fun
he must have later in the season when it was busy, to which he replied
that he had the option of closing off the weir if he thought it necessary!
We had no other incidents on our way to Teddington. However many of our
mooring plans had to be discarded because there was insufficient room
(particularly disappointing at Marlow and Henley). Boaters who, like us,
find themselves at the end of the day's cruise and nowhere to moor, may
like to know that some of the Thames' lock keepers have spaces at their
discretion at £4 per night. We stopped by the weir at Chertsey lock on
the opposite side of the road and towpath and it was quite pleasant for
1 night. Thursday approached and we braced ourselves for the "big one".
Teddington to Limehouse in 4 hours.
The lockmaster let us through half an hour before high tide, to ensure
that the tide level was correct for us at Limehouse. We fastened the life
jackets and were off- and really it was very gentle. The tiller did pull
the arm a bit due to the tide and current but the Thames was calm, there
were hardly any boats and, frankly, we wondered what all the fuss had
been about - until Lambeth bridge that is.
We had followed the instructions, staying to the right of center, and
radioed Charing Cross control. This was because of bridge repairs requiring
divers in the water and the closure of some arches. At this point we discovered
a fault in our VHF radio, so I telephoned. They could hear our radio transmissions
but we could not hear them, this also meant that we could not hear other
vessels. Anyway, we needed arch 2, second on the left. Yes, that's right,
second on the left! This meant we, and all the other traffic had to cross
over the central shipping lanes. In addition, 3 huge ferryboats decided
to choose that moment to leave Westminster pier. By this time the water
all around us was boiling and we were navigating 3-foot waves. Ray likened
it to riding a 65-foot surfb
oard.
Very often there was no water under the stern as the waves moved along
"SANCTUARY's" hull - and then the captain of the large ferryboat in front
of us realised he was not going to make the arch and began to reverse!
This meant we had to hold off and that in turn meant we were pushed closer
and closer to HMS BELFAST, making our turn even more hazardous. Water
came over the bows and across the stern. For a couple of seconds we lost
the engine noise when the water went into the exhaust. Apparently at this
moment Ray mentally went through the anchor procedure. The stern lifted
above the water, there was a gush of steam the exhaust cleared itself
and the engine was still running. Well done Beta Marine! We pitched, rolled
and yawned but not a single cupboard came open. Well done Kingsground!
Then suddenly we were through the arch and approaching Tower bridge. Time
to call Limehouse. Yes they had us on video camera, how do we know when
to turn? Answer; turn left at the Barley Mow!
From our side of the Thames, looking across about half a mile in the gloom
(it was a murky day) it was very difficult to distinguish one building
from another. Suddenly We saw the lock and turned, Ray was giving the
engine a decent amount of throttle to cut across the current when he had
to hold off for two large boats travelling upstream. Back on with the
revs - too late the current was pushing "SANCTUARY" away from the opening,
more throttle, still no effect,- maximum throttle - come on just a bit
closer--- s**t! The bows were in clear water. We were now hurtling at
maximum speed towards the 20-foot concrete wall of Limehouse lock. Pull
the throttle hard in to reverse, hard over with the tiller, brace yourself,
WHAM! Fortunately , Ray's quick thinking and reaction meant that only
the front button got slightly squashed. Apparently, the recommendation
is to go down on the left-hand side after Tower Bridge thereby avoiding
the strong central current, but no one had told us.
No words can describe the exhilaration and sense of achievement felt by
us when we at last moored up at Limehouse. We cracked open the champagne
and were on a high all night.
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